Thursday 11 July 2013

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Wednesday 5 June 2013

In Conclusion

Written a few days after our return with the van emptied, cleaned and parked up until next time, we've looked back to work out our reactions.

The Outer Hebrides, or Western Isles as they are also known, have their own unique setting with varied scenery, albeit of course on a much smaller scale than the mainland. But the quiet ambiance is something that took some getting used to. The people are extremely friendly, although there aren't many of them and perhaps it was the isolation that initially made us unsure. If there is one feature that must be highlighted, it's the stunning beaches of pure white sand that dominate the western coasts of most of the islands, difficult to get to in many cases but almost always deserted, and when the sun comes out....

But that is what we have concluded, you must have decent weather and in this respect we were perhaps a little disappointed. It's not a lot of consolation to be regularly told that this was not normal for May and our lasting memory will be of the wind. Not rain, which looking back we didn't have much problem with (mainly at night).

The islanders also don't seem to take tourism seriously, although T.I. offices are at every main location. Ancient Monuments, seen in the distance but not signposted or on many occasions apparently inaccessible; campsites, few and far between, other opportunities such as wild camping having been curtailed (though we can understand why). Perhaps it's because the islands are difficult to access, necessitating the use of ferries although they are very efficient. Or perhaps it's just that the people themselves are very happy with their way of life and don't want it disturbed.

Whatever, we have come to the conclusion that if it's peace and quiet you are after, The Western Isles are definitely a place to be experienced. We loved it.
Friday 31 May

Fickle this Scottish weather - today it's grey and misty. We had thought of taking a day to visit one of the gardens around the Oban area, in the hope that further south there would be more to see. However the weather discouraged this so an executive decision was made to head home. It's quite a way from here but we're in no rush so set the satnav, service the van (just in case) and head home.

We won't go into much detail, we've travelled these roads a number of times before yet they are still attractive. A lunch stop at Callendar, around the Edinburgh City Bypass and then the favourite A68 to Jedburgh. Arriving at our usual afternoon break time, the offer of Tea For Two at the Jedburgh Woollen Mill took our fancy so we indulged ourselves in sandwiches, huge scones, fairy cakes and enough tea to float a battleship!

Alas all good things come to an end so a final cruise home in improving weather saw us arrive early evening.
Thursday 30 May

Idyllic as it was, the wind again encouraged us to move on. However we felt that, despite the cost, this was a place we'd love to come back to. Whilst servicing the van, we realised the site was also the starting point for a popular walking trail into the Cuillin Mountains and many people were taking advantage of the fine weather. This was also evident on the road back out where it seemed every available foot of parking space had been taken up with hikers cars. But at least they kept the passing places free.

Much as we were enjoying ourselves, we had commitments at home and thus we had already resolved to head slowly south. Taking the road bridge we regretfully left beautiful Skye and crossed onto the mainland, where of course the scenery was quite different but no less attractive.
Lunching in a wild camping spot, we decided Oban was a good target for tonight, as long as we had enough fuel to get there (Tesco fuel voucher - remember it?) alas entering Fort William the warning light came on so a stop at a reasonably priced service station (we had seen some outrageous prices) to fill up. Then just down the road was the obligatory woollen mill where we paused for last minute prezzies.

On checking the map we noticed a Caravan Club site at Bunree, just down the road. This site features on the main page of the CC website and looked very attractive - but don't use a satnav to find it..... Although the sign said "Full" we thought we'd try anyway and were delighted when the warden allocated us their "spare" pitch as we only wanted one night. I have to say that we haven't ever (yet) been turned away from a Caravan Club site, despite what the critics of their system might say.

Beautiful evening, so chairs out and enjoy it while it lasts.

Wednesday 29 May 2013


Wednesday 29 May

Well at least they went to bed early (the kids that is).

A glorious morning and in other circumstances we might have stayed put to enjoy the day. Instead we decided a slow run south in the general direction of home was a good idea, looking out on the way for our ideal stopping point.

The Cuillins
Lunching outside the Talisker distillery – not on our list of favourite whiskeys – we spotted a campsite on the map that appeared to meet our wishes so disappeared off onto little more than a forestry road heading straight for the Cuilin Mountains. A short delay whilst a road-mending crew had a go at a few potholes, then onto Culnaneam where a large area of grassland overlooking a sandy beach had been fenced off and set out as an informal campsite. We could have asked for electricity but much preferred the more casual areas overlooking the beach and found a level spot.

The Cuillins
The sun was warm, the sky blue and on the horizon were the islands of Canna, Sanday and Rum. Chairs out, windbreak deployed (a rather lively but warm off-shore breeze freshened even more later in the day) and that was that. No phone signal, no TV, just a very weak radio and a bit too windy to deploy the satellite (but strangely a WiFi signal!).

The view..


from our pitch.
























Ah, bliss!


Tuesday 28 May

The weather forecast last night promised a change in the weather and sure enough the day we are to leave the Western Isles the skies clear, the wind drops and the temperature rises. Still it is promised for the top left corner of Scotland for a few days and we were planning a few days on Skye so fingers crossed.

The good ship “Hebrides” was a few minutes early departing Tarbert to cross The Minch on a flat calm sea – quite different to the Oban to Barra run a couple of weeks ago! A meal on board to fill some of the 1hr 40m crossing before arriving at the tiny port of Uig on the Isle of Skye.

"Hebrides" in Uig harbour
We were on Skye 2 years ago and loved it so were looking forward to seeing some more. So our first stop was Dunvegan Castle, home for 800 years of the McLeod Clan, now on their 30th Chieftain. Not particularly big or even impressive but nevertheless interesting and surrounded by gardens that are being brought back to their past glory.

Dunvegan Castle - Ancestral home of the McLeod Clan
In passing we ought to comment here that all the flora, both wild and cultivated, is very very late; rhododendrons in particular should be in their later stages by now but in fact, except for rare exceptions, have not yet started to flower. Bluebells, which should have finished weeks ago, still abound.


Gardens of Dunvegan Castle

With the afternoon pressing on we had espied a campsite just down the road so decided it was as good as trying to find anywhere else. In fairness it is half-term week and the weather seems to have brought out the hordes, but even though it was busy we still booked in. All the electric hook-up pitches were taken, not a problem, but so were most of the level spots too. We eventually found a pitch in the general camping area but later found we were next door to a family of young and noisy children. Too late now to change our minds so we put up with it, but a lesson learned for the future. Not that we don’t like children………

Knew we'd get a good sunset sometime....



Monday 27 May

What a night! The wind got up to storm force from the south with heavy rain showers. Although parked nose into wind we were still rocked about enough to make sleep difficult and it did not ease off for several hours. Fortunately neither we, nor any of our neighbours, suffered any damage but it summed up for us the feature about this holiday – the unrelenting wind.

Our plan today to find somewhere to service the van, having been “off-grid” for 3 or 4 days, and wend our way back down to Tarbert. With the sun now shining brilliantly again we said farewell to what we thought was the most attractive part of the islands and re-joined civilisation.

A quick stop in Tarbert for bread and milk – it seems the Sabbath doesn’t extend to Bank Holiday Monday – then, mainly to get some shelter from the wind (again), booked into a small site about 6 miles south. Although not Caravan Club standard, it has full facilities so we’ll get ourselves together again ready for the next stage of the trip, the Isle of Skye.