Monday 20 May

Time to move on again, this time taking a ferry to the Isle of Harris.

No waste water or toilet disposal facilities on this campsite, a situation we understand is fairly common throughout the Western Isles, so on arrival at the ferry “terminal” used the disposal facilities provided there. Again we understand that all the ferry terminals have them.

No booking made again (although we would recommend it later in the season) but no problem, there being plenty of room, and paid on board. The crossing takes an hour but, despite a howling gale, it was very smooth. There are many islets and rocky outcrops in the Sound of Harris and the ferry takes a tortuous buoyed route. From the ship we could see for miles in every direction to the various islands, including Skye. Regretfully, our relatively simple cameras were simply not up to doing the scenery justice.

Sound of Harris ferry

Landed on time and detoured to find a nice spot for lunch, overlooking the Little Minch across to Skye. But what was most noticeable was the distinct change of scenery. Along the eastern side, the road twists and turns through a rocky landscape skirting a not-quite-mountainous area whilst crossing back up to the west coast rolling hills backing gorgeous beaches was a complete contrast to The Uists and Barra, fine as they are.

Our Satnav showed quite a number of wild-camping spots but we discounted almost all of them as nice places to stop but not overnight. So instead we made our way to a recommended place, at Horgabost where we were led to believe was a camping area being developed from a previous very popular wilding site. In a superb location overlooking a beautiful beach and fine views, this has now become a managed, though unattended, large area with portacabins housing basic toilets/showers. There is again no waste water/toilet disposal, neither is there a water supply – the nearest is at Leverburgh ferry port. There are however extensive recycling facilities, something that the Islands appear to go for in a big way. Saves landfill we suppose!

Finding a reasonably level spot was a bit of a challenge and watching latecomers to this very popular spot provided a degree of entertainment!

 But we think £14 – paid via an “honesty” box – is a bit much.